Every Dog Deserves a Chance, But at Who’s Expense?

I’m all for giving dogs a second chance. I’ve adopted dogs in the past and currently live with a chihuahua that was hit by a car and unclaimed. As a professional dog trainer I’ve worked with hundreds of adopted dogs and their owners. This is an open letter to all rescue groups who “pull” dogs from other states, other lifestyles, and other countries to give them that “second chance.” It is going to be an unpopular topic but one that needs to be discussed. 

Do you really UNDERSTAND what life becomes for some of these dogs? Do you really KNOW the stress and fear they feel? Can you COMPREHEND what shelter to crowded transport to unknown place(s) does to a dog’s emotional state? 

Let me give you some real examples of what I’m talking about. 

The Herding breed mix picked up in Oklahoma only to be “rescued” by a group and returned to the shelter due to aggression. He was sent to Arkansas to another “rescue” that housed up to 200 dogs where he remained tied to a tree for months, only to be sent back to Oklahoma, then “pulled” by a “rescue” in Illinois. All before he was 2 years old. 

The Hound mix who was picked up in Alabama, and sent to a shelter, then “rescued” by a foster based group in the Midwest. Adopted out and returned three times because she pulled too hard on leash, wouldn’t keep her nose off the ground, and was an escape artist. She was three. 

Finally, the lab mix from overseas adopted through a “rescue” for Turkish street dogs. Unable to be approached by people, unwilling to eat unless no one was home or when people were sleeping. He was rehomed twice because the rescue refused to take him back. He bit people who tried to “make friends” with him. His age was estimated at 5-6 though no one really knows. 

In all three cases, the dogs were reactive on leash. In all three cases, the owners who consulted me thought they were doing “the right thing” by adopting. In each case, the dog’s “sad story” marketed on social media drew them to the dog. In all three cases, the dogs were more than the owners were prepared for. They wanted a friendly, family dog. None were prepared for, or counseled by the rescue group before adopting about the possibility of behavior problems. 

These aren’t isolated cases. They are happening every day throughout the US. 

I am not alone in feeling sorry for these dogs and the families that adopt them. Trainers see these types of cases everyday, where breed predisposition and rural or feral life history collide with urban and suburban life. 

I’m not saying that every dog from the “Deep South” or the “ranch states” won’t someday make a good family dog for the right family. What I AM saying is that everyone needs to really comprehend where these dogs come from, the life experiences they have had, as well as what they were bred to do. I am writing this so that everyone knows these dogs are stressed more than we can imagine. I hope, after reading this, you will understand that a real second chance may not exist when they are moved hundreds or thousands of miles away. 

Overcrowded, underfunded rural shelters have to make difficult decisions every day. Unfortunately families are often forced to make difficult decisions when they adopt a dog that isn’t suited for life in the suburbs. These dogs suffer physical and emotional stress under the name of “rehabilitation and training.” Behavioral euthanasia is never a pleasant option but it is happening to "rescued" dogs like the aforementioned every day. It is a cycle we need to change! 

Dog Rescue groups could learn a lesson from the feral cat organizations about the sad reality of second chances. Feral cats are rarely happy indoors. Trap, neuter, and release has proven a viable alternative to trying to find people to adopt them. Feral cats do better in the environment than they do indoors as house pets. 

Altering dogs and releasing them back into their previous environment is not an option. Life on the streets can be cruel indeed. But for some dogs it is where they are comfortable, where they have learned to adapt and survive. They can sniff, scavenge, find safe places to eat and sleep, where they experience less stress than in a busy home. They find the companionship of other dogs instead of spending hours alone, indoors due to the human's often absent lifestyle. 

I’m not asking the “adopt, don’t shop” movement to end. I’m asking that you REALLY think about the dogs you are trying to rescue. I’m asking that you educate yourself, and potential adopters, about the intrinsic behavior of the dogs you are offering for placement. I am begging you to understand the behavior problems that often occur when these dogs are adopted. I’m pleading for more accountability for trainers to stop trying to use physical punishment, fear, and intimidation on dogs who are simply trying to figure out what the hell has happened to them! 

And most of all I’m praying for for the dogs. They may have been quite happy in their previous life. And, through no fault of their own, their second chance ends up creating a life of daily stress and conflict. Too many pay the ultimate price after months, or years, of existing. Trying to survive their “second chance.” 

We must do better. The dogs deserve it. 

The Lena files - weeks 2-3

So I failed miserably at posting daily so I'll recap the last couple weeks. 

Lena accompanied us to the dog shows in Oshkosh last weekend, with a goal of generalizing behaviors, and desensitizing her to noises such as dryers. 

Lena passed the first goal with flying colors! She applied her "fronts up" cue to a large metal dog bowl, a cardboard box, and a suitcase. Why go to great efforts to teach her to perform what seems like a useless behavior? Because it is a cure strengthening and focus exercise, and one which has helped her learn the cue to wait. I'll also use this for teaching heel position. 

The desensitization was a bit more challenging. She was able to remain quiet  if she had something good to chew on. Covering her crate also helped significantly, both examples of good management. We used her breakfast to pair the dryer noise with eating, a classic use of counter-conditioning and desensitization.

The last few days were spent working on teaching 2 impulse control exercises - taking treats slowly and decreasing her compulsive circling behavior. 

Lena's excitability leaves her prone to gulping treats. This makes her more likely to move out of position whenever working with food. To change this I work multiple times each day delivering treats from hand to mouth VERY SLOWLY. Any movement from Lena makes the treat move away, teaching her to be patient and remain under control, which decreases the "grab and gulp." 

The circling behavior is a struggle. I am working to change this behavior with two approaches - management with a leash  (prevents the rehearsal) and marking and rewarding any behavior that is not circling   

The circling is really an outlet for excitement and energy. I also now know that if I play "find it" a few times prior to a training session her circling behavior is significantly less. 

Until I can get these two behaviors under control other, more precise behaviors, are hard to teach. 

And oh, she's in season, so hormones are also a factor now. We march on! 

Lena Files - Day 3

Today we are working on impulse control (wait) around other dogs. Since Kili, my Cavalier, also needs to learn fronts (a recall with sit in front) and stay I decided to kill two birds with one stone, using platforms as stations.

Morning Training today:

Exercise #1 - go to platform and sit on it (Cue is UP)

This now makes Lena have to think about whether I want two front feet up on the platform, or her whole body. The more she has to think the less she gets aroused. We'll add distance to the platform later.

Exercise #2 - UP + duration

Lena needs to learn duration of her behaviors. Food rewards, though necessary to teach new behaviors, really key her up so I am marking with "YES" but delaying the food reward by just a few seconds. The idea is to treat before she moves.

Exercise #3 - Wait

This will become a formal cue later on. She understands this in a standing position from her conformation training. Now its time to teach it with other behaviors (generalization.)

We started today with a pause behind the baby gate. We will increase duration slowly so Lena can succeed. 

Until tomorrow 

Lena files-day 2

Today was one of those days I'm sure my students have. I worked a 12 hour day. Lena stayed home because I knew I wouldn't be able to give her the attention she demands at work. You know the story "the Shoemaker's child doesn't have shoes."

A few minutes tonight before bed to see if she can generalize the platform behavior to home using a yoga block. Here is what I learned:

Yoga blocks are not good platforms forLena  (Yes, Wendy, you were right!) But she did generalize the cue. 

Working her around multiple other dogs is VERY arousing. She can't focus for very long. She wants them out of her space. She WANTS to work! All areas we will need work on. 

Until tomorrow. 

The Lena Files - Day One

Also Known As - Training the overly aroused puppy

Most of my students know that I have a young Pug who I use as a reference for training challeges. I LOVE this type of dog! The dog that has a lot of energy, finds focus challenging, and wants to be "on the go" all the time. I've had much success in the conformation ring with just this type of dog, in a variety of breeds.

Lena's mother was just such a dog. Other people had tried, without success, to show her to her championship. I got her in January and with just a little confidence building and focus work, showed her to her championship in just under 4 months, with very limited showing. Lena's father is a great show dog, but he has some "quirks" at home. Lena's "over the top" behavior is the result of her genetics.

Lena has trouble standing still. She isn't confident, but acts tough when she is in a familiar place. She can exhibit barrier frustration

. She constantly uses her mouth, earning her the nick-name "piranha!" She gets along with other dogs and loves people. She's the type of dog most owners would say has "ADHD."

I decided to chronicle my training journey with her so others can see that a dog trainer's dog isn't always perfect. We have the same challenges as our students. Here is day one:

Focus exercises were the key. Lena needs to learn heel position, how to remain focused with distractions, and how to keep all four feet on the ground. She has a pretty solid recall, a solid target (hand) touch and a beautiful mat (place training) settle. I decided to use platform training to help teach her to stand still, and hand targeting to teach her heel position.


Exercise #1 - FRONTS UP - I used a short platform to teach her to put both front feet up and stand still. I use a marker word "YES" and then treat with a food reward (Lena works for kibble!) Multiple short training sessions were accomplished today and we worked this with the platform in front of me, as well as on my left side in heel position.

Exercise #2 - FRONT - The standard obedience recall + sit in front (I refer to this as "nose to toes" position) Lena needs to learn not to jump up. I cued a recall with "FRONT" and then used a "flash lure" of food to cue sit as she came barreling in towards my legs. Without the flash lure Lena's standard behavior is a default jump. I incorporated the exercise of "back up and sit," one of my favorite focus exercises.

Exercise #3 - HEEL - Teaching heel position is most often done through luring forward. For Lena, forward motion equals WOO HOO! I am choosing to teach her the focus part of heeling first, then add the forward motion. Using a hand target (my left hand, with the pointer finger extended) complete with a food lure, I am choosing to walk backwards one step after giving the cue "HEEL" and then marking Lena for every step she takes while focused on the target hand. With dogs like Lena progressing too quickly is a recipe for losing focus.

In addition I am using the platform to create heel position. The cue "HEEL" is really a position cue, not a motion cue. Once Lena learned fronts up I can then cue her to do it in heel position.

Why am I doing this? Because Lena NEEDS it. She wants to work. She wants to please. She's just not hard wired for calm behavior. It is my job to teach it.

Until tomorrow!

Is Punishment Good or Bad?

A dog is the perfect addition to our family. We cherish that fuzzy faced, cute bundle of joy that we choose to bring into our household. The first few weeks are great! He seems nearly perfect, except for the occasional accident, which we know is our fault. Then IT happens. That little darling has become a paper shredding, wood chewing, noise making, leash pulling monster, seemingly overnight! Not to mention all those accidents when he should "know better," right?

We add a dog to our life to compliment our family not complicate it. It's easy to feel frustrated and that's when owners react by punishing the dog. Well intentioned friends often suggest punishment based tools to "correct" the behavior. Unfortunately without UNDERSTANDING THE CAUSE of the behavior devices such as prong collars, shock collars, spray bottles, and air horns can have the wrong impact. They can serve as unintentional reinforcement, which unfortunately keeps the behavior going. They can create fear, which creates a whole host of other problems. Often these problems are worse than the original challenges. Owners often remark that the "behavior is better, as long as I have the insert punishment tool here." This is called suppression. You haven't really CHANGED the behavior. All you've done is minimized the behavior when the punisher is being used. When it comes back, and it typically will, it usually comes back at an even higher level. 

So IS PUNISHMENT USEFUL? The answer is YES! Punishment is a useful training tool if the following is also applied:

1) It is applied AT THE SAME TIME, AND AT THE SAME LEVEL EVERY TIME.

2) It is applied AT A LEVEL THAT DOES NOT CAUSE A FEARFUL RESPONSE.

3) It CHANGES THE BEHAVIOR WITH ONLY ONE OR TWO APPLICATIONS.

So let's define Punishment. Punishment is something that makes a behavior less likely to be repeated. It's counterpart, reinforcement, makes a behavior more likely to be repeated. So in order to change your dog's behavior YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHAT IS DRIVING IT! 

Now comes the confusing part... Punishment can be Positive or Negative. WHAT?

The training tools listed above are ADDED to try to reduce the behavior. Adding something is called Positive Punishment. It can be effective. One example is the use of a Scat Mat for counter surfing. A tingling feeling when the dog puts his paws up on the now booby trapped counter can reduce the incidence of it recurring. But without teaching the dog some other behavior that can be rewarded, such as a place stay during times he previously explored the counters, the behavior is likely to continue. You can't rely on the use of punishment alone. 

Now let's look at a behavior like pulling on leash. Why do dogs pull? They pull to explore. They pull towards others to greet them. They pull to eat that nasty thing in the grass. Can you punish this behavior. Yes, you can! You can stop walking when the leash is tight, or turn and walk a different direction, thereby preventing access to what the dog wants. Taking away something the dog wants is called Negative Punishment. But stopping every time your dog pulls, or constantly turning around is boring and frustrating for both you and your dog.  You need to teach fundamental loose leash walking skills that your dog can use to ask for permission! Once again you can't rely on simply trying to punish. 

If you look at why a behavior is occurring you can decide IF punishment is useful. The most common behavior problems owners face are often normal canine behaviors that collide with the human family model. These behaviors can often be changed quite easily by removing the reward that the dog receives AND replacing the behavior with something the dog can perform TO GET REINFORCED! Yes, it takes time and training. We send our children to school to learn acceptable behavior. Why is it that we often fail to give our dogs the same basic schooling and resort to simply trying to punish? 

That's why the use of punishment is considered "bad" by many trainers. Because as humans we don't take time to understand WHY. We just want it to end. And we think the dog "should know better." There is no way they can unless we teach them. It's our responsibility as owners to teach the dog a better option, instead of simply punishing. Trust, respect, and love are what we give our children. Don't our four legged kids deserve the same?

Influences of Behavior

Why Does My Dog Do That?

As a trainer I hear statements from owners almost daily about what they do not want their dog to do, and very few where the owner tells me what they would like instead. It is rare that an owner calls me and says “can you help me teach my dog to do (insert behavior here).” Some of the more common frustrated proclamations sound like this:

“I’ve got a 4 month old Golden Retriever (or Labrador, or Doodle, or any other sporting dog) and I want him to stop stealing my (insert item here!)” 

Or:

“My 6 month old Aussie (or any other herding breed) won’t stop chasing my children, and now he’s starting to nip (or herd them.)”

Or:

“How can I stop my Schnauzer (insert any other terrier breed here) from digging when he’s outside?” 

Or another frequently heard emergency call:

“My year old German Shepherd won’t stop barking at people.  How do I make him stop barking?”

Problem behaviors in dogs do not just happen overnight. When an owner is frustrated it is because the behavior has reached a point where it is affecting the owner’s quality of life. All too often the owner doesn’t understand that the behavior has many factors that have influenced the dog, some that they may have had control over, some that they may not. 

With behavior we know that there are certain aspects of behaviors that are hard wired, or have served some significant purpose for that breed in the past, and those that are shaped by life experiences. We often refer to these as Nature vs. Nuture. Behaviors that are selectively bred for, over generations, are difficult, if not impossible, to erase. The sporting breeds have been used for centuries to leap through tall grass to flush and point, jump out of the boat or off the bank to retrieve the bird that was shot, and carry back whatever they can. That 4 month old Golden isn’t going to stop putting things in his mouth! What the owner needs to do is train a solid recall and drop it cue, AND manage his house so that inappropriate objects are not within reach of his puppy! Those Doodle’s are genetically programmed for this as well, and that Labrador puppy purchasedfrom a “field breeder” because the “show types” are “unhealthy” has been pre-programmed with enough energy to be out in the field ALL DAY LONG! That means that the owner now has to deal with how to channel 5 or 6 HOURS of energy everyday into something positive. 

Terriers dig, herding dogs circle, chase, and nip (when they have too much energy and no self control,) and dogs bred to be guardians require extra positive socialization in order to learn that strangers don’t mean danger!

That brings me to the “nurture” aspect. Don’t blame the dog if his social skills are not what you expected. There are several critical early development periods that shape behavior. 

4-6 weeks of age – Puppies must be exposed to a variety of different people, sights, and sounds in order to help them develop confidence and sociability. 

6-8 weeks of age – Puppies MUST REMAIN WITH LITTERMATES or they fail to develop social skills critical later on, such as bite inhibition. 

8-12 weeks of age – Primary imprinting period that also encompasses early fear period.

12-16 weeks of age – Age of exploration but also the first primary fear period. 

17 weeks to maturity – Continued POSITIVE associations are needed to create a stable, well behaved adult. 

In addition to these learning periods your dog’s genetic makeup also influences behavior. Puppies from high strung, fearful, or poorly socialized mothers (and fathers) are often genetically programmed to behave the same way. 

Pet store puppy? He probably didn’t see anyone until he was shipped to the store. Transplant rescue dog from “the south?” He may not have lived indoors, with people, or near traffic. Puppy shipped in from out of state internet breeder. Congratulations! You may have just won the behavior nightmare trifecta! If you do not know where your puppy came from then you don’t know what genetic and poor or non-existent early learning influences are at work to shape his behavior. 

So don’t blame the dog if you failed to train him properly. Don’t blame the dog if you don’t know his history. Don’t blame the dog if you failed to socialize him as a puppy because you were “too busy” or didn’t think it was “necessary.” Blame Mother Nature. Blame yourself. But don’t blame the dog. And yes, we can help teach behaviors that can replace “naughty ones,” and with patience and an understanding for how the dog feels we can help many learn to be more comfortable in the world  around him.