Parenting Today's "Children"

We live in a world that is progressive and tries to be politically correct. Children today are involved in more activities, clubs, and sports than ever before. Parents are often pulled in multiple directions as they try to get everyone where they need to be. Family dinners are virtually a thing of the past. We live in a world where we believe "more is better." 

Parenting today is more difficult than ever. Divorce, long work hours, and social commitments all pull parents away from the relationship with their children. And yet, in our politically correct, progressive society we are no longer pet owners, we are "pet parents." We no longer live with a dog or cat, they are our "fur children."

I refer to my dogs as my "kids" and, just as I did with my two human children, I take their education seriously. It is my responsibility to make sure that they behave when in public, that they are not a nuisance to my neighbors, and that they get along with others. These are the same goals I had when parenting my human children.

My human children went to preschool, kindergarten, elementary, middle school, high school and finally, college. If we are going to have " fur kids" it is our responsibility to make sure that they are as educated and well behaved as our two legged kids. As "pet parents" we should enroll our puppies in a puppy class so that they can attend preschool and kindergarten. Their elementary education should include a manners class, beginner obedience class, or similar curriculum, where they learn how to behave around people and other "kids." Higher education is also available! 

I see so many clients struggling to balance their lives with their dog's basic needs and education. Comments such as "I just don't have the time" or "I didn't know it was going to be this much work" are heard weekly. The similarities between poorly behaved children and out of control dogs cannot be ignored. What is a "pet parent" to do?

Set clear rules and make sure everyone understands why they are important. Be ready to a help your dog learn what you want and expect from him, through a system of rewards, instead of trying to punish him for what he doesn't understand, or worse yet, has never learned! Know what "normal" behavior is for your dog's breed and age, and make sure that he has aerobic and mental exercise that meets his needs, not yours. 

Sound impossible? Welcome to "pet parenting!" You are responsible for your "kid's" behavior. Need help? That's where we come in. As teachers we can help you set realistic expectations. Through private coaching lessons or day training we can tutor your fur child. And yes, their is even boarding school if you are going away. Together we can make a difference, one " fur kid" at a time.

Silence is Golden

It's no secret that I love to work with dogs. I enjoy watching them figure out problems, work to perform what they think I want, and I am continuously amazed at how they can adjust and adapt to their environment. Their human counterparts, better known as owners or pet parents, could learn a thing or two just by spending some time watching them.

Think about how little dogs "say" and yet they communicate among themselves quite clearly. They only use verbal communication, barking, when absolutely necessary. Even confrontations can be solved without verbal communication. A subtle lift of the lips, a change in ear position, or tensing of the muscles can clearly say "back off" without even so much as a sound!

When I work with a dog I always observe his body language first. I wait to see if he will offer me attention, often without making a sound to cue any particular behavior. When I teach a new behavior I rarely give a verbal cue, preferring to wait until I have the behavior first, then building an association between the new learned behavior and the human word. After all it is the human who needs to call the behavior something. A simple hand motion (signal) or body language cue and the dog understands what I want. 

My vocabulary when working with dogs is often quite limited. I use "yes" to mark behaviors I want, praise in a happy tone when I want to maintain attention especially when moving or teaching walking skills. I sometimes use an "oops" cue but more often than not I let my actions tell the dog he is wrong. My students are always amazed at how much focus I get from even an aroused or excited dog. Noted trainer and German shepherd breeder Suzanne Clothier calls this "connection." 

When we are connected we can learn from each other. When connected we move together. Dogs connected to their person ask for permission instead of pulling toward what they want. Owners connected to their dog recognize what the dog needs, and they know how their dog can earn it. They also know how to "pay" their dog, recognizing the behaviors that need a jackpot of rewards, and those that a simple smile or "yes" will suffice.

The disconnect often occurs when the human uses his mouth instead of his brain and body. Owners verbally ramble, repeat the dog's name or commands over and over, often raising their voice as if the dog was deaf. They keep walking forward as their dog pulls towards other dogs or people, instead of standing still, waiting for the dog to reconnect. They complain about their dog's behavior, or worse yet make excuses, instead of committing the time to train. Then they reach for punishment based tools and techniques out of frustration.

Try not talking to your Pug. Just stand there in the room with him. And wait. Be patient. Then reward him when he looks at you. Pet him, tell him what a good dog he is. Treat him, then stand quietly and wait for his response. You might be surprised at how connected you become. 

Silence is golden. Body language speaks volumes! Especially when you are a Pug!

The Journey!

I have an amazing little Pug, CH Brenich Sharp Dressed Man, known to everyone as Sharpie. I like to refer to him as my Border Collie in Pug clothing. He would do anything I ask him to do, and do it with energy and enthusiasm.

With Sharpie by my side I embarked on the journey into K9 Nose Work. He took to it immediately! What Pug wouldn't? He got to find food and eat! A perfect sport for Pugs! We attended a 2 day seminar in Iowa and we were both hooked. I knew I wanted to teach this activity but I needed Sharpie's help to achieve that goal. 

I received my certification earlier this year but it wasn't until today that I realized just how much Sharpie has learned and just how much our partnership has taught me. Through the last 2 years he has learned to recognize 3 individual odors. Sharpie has learned to search vehicles, interior rooms, exterior locations, and containers for these odors. He has learned to tell me when he has found the hidden odor, in anticipation of his food reward. He has won an element In a trial, the first Pug in the history of the sport to do so. He has yet to get his initial title. We've competed at two trials. I failed him the first time, as nerves got the better of me and I called the first search too early. We passed the remaining three elements. The second trial we almost didn't compete as he was recovering from an eye injury. But he got the okay from the vet and although he wasn't as jazzed up as usual in the morning, he passed the afternoon elements with flying colors, even winning the exterior search in less than 10 seconds! He has proven that a Pug can do anything the owner is willing to teach.

More importantly he has taught me how to trust my dog. He has taught me to pay attention to the smallest of details as he searches. Details such as breathing patterns, body movements, ear positions, and tail positions. He has taught me patience. He has taught me humility. He has taught me that it isn't whether you pass, it's about having fun together.

His search style has helped me to be a better instructor for my students. He's taught me to think about the "why" if a search isn't easy. His ability to find the edge of the scent cone, affectionately known as the "Sharpie circle" to everyone who knows him in the sport, has taught others to really learn to watch their dog, and to stop worrying if they go slightly outside the search area. Sharpie has taught me to get creative when faced with each new problem we encounter together. Our experiences together have helped me be a better instructor so my students can be better trainers.

All of my initial Nose Work students have now passed their initial odor recognition test. Two have passed the second odor as well. One is competing at the same level as Sharpie and I. I've made some wonderful new friends, fellow instructors who are enjoying their own journeys, and fellow competitors who are having fun seeing what their own dogs can do. 

I owe it all to an amazing Pug who gives me 100% every time! Sharpie, thanks for letting me take this ride with you. You never cease to amaze me. We will enter another trial soon. And I promise to try not blow it again! Be patient with me. I am a human after all!

Unintended Consequences

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I have historically resisted going to the dentist. Fortunately for me I found a dentist that doesn't terrify me as much, so I've been pretty good about seeing him routinely for cleanings. I've had a tooth that for the last several years I've been told, at every visit, needs a crown. For a variety of reasons, excuses really, I've put that procedure off. What does that have to do with dog training? Well as many of you know I had a dental emergency last week. The Unintended consequences for the decision to put off the crown procedure were a fractured molar, bone infection, pain, swelling, surgery, and a bone graft. And yet to come, an implant.

Every training decision we make can have Unintended consequences as well. More often than not, the consequence is not a positive one. Many owners, in their efforts to "correct" one perceived bad behavior, are left with other behaviors that may be more harmful to the dog, the relationship, or innocent bystanders.

Here are some common scenarios we see every week in training:

Electronic stimulation collars: Why these are available in big box retailers, hardware stores, and elsewhere is beyond me. Most owners want to use them for one of two reasons - aggression/reactivity toward other dogs or failing to come when called. These collars deliver a pain stimulus at varying levels and durations when the owner pushes a button. The Unintended consequence?

Dog barks/lunges at other dog -ZAP! His perception is that the other dog now causes pain too! He is quite likely to be more reactive or react quicker the next time. What happens if the owner's timing is a little off and the instant the dog notices a child near the scary dog -ZAP! You guessed it! The dog now begins to fear children as well. 

Dog fails to come when called -ZAP! The dog doesn't know at that moment he is being corrected for not coming, especially when he's too busy chasing something. He either becomes desensitized to the pain, or worse yet, keeps running because the pain doesn't make sense! What if the owner's timing is off on that button? "FIDO COME!" Is repeated just a couple times, he is just turning after making the decision to head back to the owner -ZAP! Now coming when called is painful. Forget it now!

Underground containment systems: this is the biggest source of frustration for owners, and something I get called about on a weekly basis. The dog learns to stay within the boundaries or risk pain crossing through the barrier. While I will agree a dog safely in the yard is better than one risking being hit by a car, there are some Unintended consequences I see over and over-

Uncontrolled barking - territorial aggression, frustration at being unable to visit beyond the barrier, but still being able to see the entire neighborhood's activities, and boredom all lead to barking. Once a dog is barking in this situation is is very difficult to change unless the owner is willing to change how the dog is managed outside.

Aggression toward unfamiliar dogs - friendly breeds such as Golden Retriever and Labradors just want to play. Those that choose to test the fence, and receive several painful "lessons" , or break through the fence, now begin to associate the sight of unfamiliar dogs with pain. Pain is a powerful motivator. This quickly develops into full blown aggression for some dogs.

Destructive behaviors - owners often leave their dogs outside unattended to "have fun" and "play", or for exercise by themselves. Well guess what dogs do to amuse themselves? They dig up flower beds, they chew on siding or landscaping, and they run and bark at others in the neighborhood.

Physical punishment techniques for biting, etc: old school training techniques based on force and intimidation have sometimes devastating consequences. "Alpha rolls", "scruffing", or muzzle grabs can all cause fear based aggression toward owners or people in general. When a dog chooses to defend itself from these techniques, and a bite occurs, who gets the blame? Would you not defend yourself if someone you knew repeatedly grabbed you, pinned you down, or pinched you? We call this domestic abuse when it involves two humans.

"Walking" a puppy before he learns what impulse control is: all puppies need exercise and without it, there are other Unintended consequences such as destructive chewing. But allowing a puppy to pull its owner everywhere it wants to investigate, pull to greet people and other dogs, and jump up to say hello, leads to an adult dog with the same habits. He learns these behaviors work and then suddenly, one random day in the dog's life, suddenly these behaviors are not okay. Now, without rhyme or reason for many dogs, they might even be painful (I.e. Owner uses pinch/shock collar).

The message: train, don't complain. If you feel you have to change a behavior beware of the Unintended consequences you might end up with. Your goal should be to change the behavior in a humane way that makes sense to your dog. Otherwise it might be a more painful, more expensive consequence just like my tooth!

Blueprint for Success

As a breeder and dog owner I face the same challenges as my students when it comes to having well behaved dogs. I admit that sometimes my dogs fall into the "shoemaker's children" category, since my time is split between managing my multi-dog household, running the training business, and managing a veterinary clinic.

I began to think about why my dogs, with admittedly limited to no classroom training time, always behave well in public, whether at a dog show, a client's house as a distraction dog, or in public for demonstrations. You might argue that since I am a professional dog trainer my dogs have an unfair advantage. That might be true but my dogs get less one on one training than the majority of my students. Many never attend a class, and my dogs have to work well individually, as well as together as a group, in all sorts of locations and situations.

I realized that although dedicated training time is very limited in my dogs' world I make the most of each training opportunity. Here is my blueprint for success:

* You can't be in "correction" mode and expect your dog to be well behaved. 

       Punishment won't teach your dog what you expect from him and it certainly isn't pleasant. Do we continually punish children for their behavior in public? 

* Teach your dog what you need from him, don't expect him to "know" what you want.

       Just because he can sit at home when you show him a treat doesn't mean he can sit at the farmers market when the distractions are great, you aren't bribing him, and he isn't directly in front of you.

* Be patient. You didn't learn everything you need to succeed in a few short months. 

       Why do we think our dogs should become great citizens in 6 months or a year, with little to no schooling? Learning new skills takes time. Additional time is needed for your dog to perfect these skills and then rehearse them in the situations you will gradually expose him to. If you can't be patient don't blame your dog! If you don't train don't blame your dog.

* Pay attention to what your dog is telling you.

        Our definition of "bad behavior" may actually be your dog's way of trying to say he is anxious, scared, or unsure of what is happening in the world around him. Punishment only makes your dog more anxious. Watch for signs of stress such as lip licking, cowering, whining, panting, and "wide eyes." Is your dog trying to leave? These are all signs of stress, not bad behavior! Get him out of that situation as soon as possible instead of getting frustrated. 

* Reward what you want, even if its a tiny piece of the end goal.

        Positive reinforcement goes a long way! It builds the relationship between the two of you, teaches him what you want, and allows you to feel good about the goals you achieve. 

* Accept your dog's behavior as your responsibility.

        You accepted this bundle of energy into your life. He didn't ask to be in yours! You owe it to him to spend whatever time is necessary to help him learn what you expect, not punish him for what he doesn't understand.

* Train, don't complain! Frustration should be your motivation to effect a positive change.

Out and about

It is my opinion that most dog owners don't really understand how much time they need to devote to training in order to have the well behaved dog they envision. This is especially true for puppy owners. As a trainer, breeder, and dog owner I am constantly observing the same scenarios over and over whenever I see dogs in public with their owners.

Owner is walking, dog is pulling. Owner stops, dog pulls in some direction. Dog's nose goes to ground, gathering information, owner jerks leash and tells dog to stop. Dog stops for a brief second, or worse yet ignores owner completely, and owner continues to nag at dog by pulling harder or jerking the leash harder. Owner moves on eventually and the scenario repeats.

A visit to any big box pet store is even worse! Dogs panting wildly, overwhelmed by the environment. Owners trying to physically restrain them or buying prong collars to try to correct them. Dogs completely unaware that the owners are anything more than dead weight keeping them from getting to other dogs, people, or all those yummy treats. Dogs eliminating unabated to mark that they were there, and owners shocked or embarrassed that their dog would do such a thing.

Taking a dog out in public shouldn't be something you do without a lot of training under your belt, and should always involve a plan. Prepare for what you expect to encounter ahead of time, and be prepared for the unexpected. Your dog may not enjoy going into stores. He doesn't know he can't eliminate unless you've trained him to only eliminate on cue! Elimination can happen unexpectedly if your dog is nervous or overstimulated. If you are going to pay more attention to your smart phone than your dog leave him at home!

Think about the world from your dog's perspective before you embark on a field trip with him. He isn't likely to enjoy sitting around watching your child's soccer game unless he's well socialized AND has something else to occupy his time. He can't keep score, doesn't care who wins, but he may be really interested in chasing the ball or the children! That's what he sees as fun. If all you are going to do is try to restrain him and correct him for normal dog behavior why bring him in the first place?

He doesn't enjoy shopping the way humans do. He might enjoy being with you but unless you give him some instruction on how to behave in public, AND reward him for those behaviors, all he can do is act like a dog! Dogs investigate everything by sniffing, greet by jumping, and try to solicit attention. Don't get angry with him! Train him to be polite! Teach a rock solid SIT. Practice WAIT in a variety of distractions. Reward focus on you! Then take him out in public.

Don't leave home without a variety of treats that your dog can earn along the way. If you don't provide them for good behavior your dog, being a dog, will find his own rewards! Then you will be just another dog and his owner working against each other instead of enjoying a field trip together.

If the above scenarios are all too familiar why not take a class with your dog? We will be offering a n "Out and About" class soon, which will help teach you the foundation skills necessary to take your dog out in public successfully. Watch our website and Facebook for details.

My dog won't come!

This is probably the biggest complaint I get from owners. Statements such as " he won't come when he's out in the yard" or " he only comes when I have treat" or " he did it every time in class but never comes to me at home" are unfortunately a glimpse into the reality of how hard this behavior is to achieve reliably.

Teaching a dog to come when called is a lot like learning to drive a car. You enroll in a driver's education class to LEARN how to operate a vehicle safely. You have to STUDY in a classroom setting, pass written tests, and then get your learners permit. Permit in hand you now begin to actually drive a car, with supervision of course! Logging your hours behind the wheel you learn to navigate turning, parking, stops and starts, and so much more. After much PRACTICE you finally are ready to take the TEST! Once you pass you have a license but are you ready to drive on a ROAD TRIP?

Your dog must first LEARN what it you want when you say "ROVER! COME!" He must LEARN that his name means good things are coming and that COME equals YUMMY TREATS EVERY TIME!

You must help your dog STUDY this behavior by calling him when there are no distractions at first, and reward him each time he passes! The distractions increase slowly, with each successful recall one step closer to moving outdoors (your dog's learners permit.) Teaching this behavior takes many HOURS of PRACTICE, just like your behind the wheel hours logged. These sessions should include a long line to prevent your dog from learning that it is optional to come when called. Think of this tool as your dog's seat belt - it's there in case of emergency (you can reel him in, which insures his success.)

The TEST comes when you have navigated many distractions successfully and you no longer need the long line to help shape the behavior. Just as some drivers need to take their road test more than once you may find you have to take a step backwards, reattach the long line, and practice with more distractions.

After MONTHS of success you are ready for the road trip! Try a park, the beach, the dog park, or any other location you can think of. You will need your "long line" in case of emergency! Set your dog up for success by having high value rewards for each recall! And just like driving takes practice you will need to continue to practice recalls regularly. You can now begin to fade the food rewards slowly, in low distraction environments first. Don't forget to PRAISE!

So if you are one of those people who have asked your dog to " take a road trip" before he has learned to "drive the car" here are some questions that you should consider:

How many times have you said your dog's name in anger or frustration? If the answer is more than once or twice why should he respond when you call him? Try creating a positive association now with his name and favorite treats or activities.

Does your dog believe that COME equals YUMMY TREATS or does he believe COME equals SOMETHING BAD or UNPLEASANT? Remember its your dog's perspective here, not yours. Do you call him and put him in his crate? Do you call him and turn off his fun? If the answer is yes, then why should he come when called?

Have you planned training so that your dog can succeed by ignoring small distractions first? If the answer is no then how does your dog know that coming to you is more interesting and exciting?

Have you trained with a long line for weeks or months so that your dog learns that the behavior is not optional? If he has more rewarding options, and you cannot insure his success through management, why should he come to you?

And finally, have YOU put in the time and effort it takes to teach your dog what you want or do you believe he should "just do it because...?" To that I reply, WHY SHOULD HE? The answer is clear. He won't until you train for it!

Cooperation

Anyone who is married or has children knows that when your relationship is smooth sailing it probably means that you understand each other, and that you can cooperate with each other to get tasks done. When cooperation doesn't happen your day to day interactions may seem frustrating and certainly become more difficult to manage.

Living with a puppy or adolescent dog can be easier if you and your puppy cooperate. What does he like? Use his favorite things to gain cooperation when you need it!

Does he like to go outside? Reinforce sitting by not opening the door until he does! Won't cooperate? Simply say "too bad" and walk away. Does he like to eat? Use his meals as training treats by asking to earn every kibble! Does he like to go for walks? Make him earn it by sitting quietly for the leash to be put on. Won't cooperate? Again "too bad", put the leash down.

Your dog doesn't know what your rules are unless you help him learn through cooperation. Cooperation means that you understand what he wants and reward him with these things for good behavior, not punish him for what you don't like. He will cooperate with you if you can communicate that his needs will also be met by doing what you want.

Puppies that are continually punished for their behavior have no reason to cooperate. Why should he come to you if he isn't praised, rewarded, and allowed to have some fun in return? If jumping up on you produces attention, you yell at him and push him away, is he going to sit politely for you to pet him? Not unless you cooperate and help him learn to sit first, then reward him with petting.

Cooperation means a relationship built on trust and respect instead of pain, force, or dominance. Most if us don't describe our relationship with our spouse or kids using those terms. Why is it considered acceptable when we talk about our dog using those terms?

Do we use prong collars, shock collars, or physical force when our children make a mistake? As absurd as that sounds they are mainstream in dog training. Your child runs out into the street. Do you install an electric fence so he gets zapped the next time? No, you manage him so it doesn't happen again and TEACH him to stay in the yard. If he cooperates he can play outside. Why then do we not teach the dog the same way?

I know we all have busy lives. But is your life too busy to simply take a few moments every day and work on a few simple tasks? Encourage cooperation through consistent behavior. Reward your dog with what he wants. In the long run you will both be happier. And his behavior will be more consistent.

Success

How do you measure success? Is it the number of tricks your dog knows? Is it when your dog finally learns not to do something?

As an instructor I do not measure my success by the number of students I have in classes. I measure success by the number of repeat students I have, and by their success.

Congratulations to Lori and Marzi and Maggie with Bing and Phoenix on their successes in K9 Nose Work training this weekend.

Each time you set out as team you gain experiences to build on.

Trust your dog! The nose knows!

Welcome!

Welcome to my new blog! My hope is to be able to create a forum for questions from students, a place to discuss new ideas, products, and techniques, and to educate owners on how to create a positive, lasting relationship with their dog.

Remember we have new classes beginning next week:

Kindergarten Puppy II class - Monday night at 7:00 pm
Beginner Obedience II class - Monday night at 8:15 pm

- sign up through Lake Bluff Park District at www.lakebluffparks.org or by calling 847-234-4150

Beginner Obedience I class - Wednesday night at 6:30 pm
Intro to K9 Nose Work class - Wednesday night at 8:00 pm

Location: Gorton Center in Lake Forest - sign up at www.twopaws-up.com

Puppy Kindgergarten II class - Wednesday night at 6:45 pm

Location: Woofman's Lodge, Kenosha - sign up at www.twopaws-up.com

We have also addes some evens for April! We are offering a 2 hour workshop on Coming When Called on April 6th from 2:00 to 4:00 pm, and a 2 hour workshop on Loose Leash Walking on April 20th fro 2:00 to 4:00 pm. Sign up for these under the events tab at www.twopaws-up.com.