Lena files-day 2

Today was one of those days I'm sure my students have. I worked a 12 hour day. Lena stayed home because I knew I wouldn't be able to give her the attention she demands at work. You know the story "the Shoemaker's child doesn't have shoes."

A few minutes tonight before bed to see if she can generalize the platform behavior to home using a yoga block. Here is what I learned:

Yoga blocks are not good platforms forLena  (Yes, Wendy, you were right!) But she did generalize the cue. 

Working her around multiple other dogs is VERY arousing. She can't focus for very long. She wants them out of her space. She WANTS to work! All areas we will need work on. 

Until tomorrow. 

The Lena Files - Day One

Also Known As - Training the overly aroused puppy

Most of my students know that I have a young Pug who I use as a reference for training challeges. I LOVE this type of dog! The dog that has a lot of energy, finds focus challenging, and wants to be "on the go" all the time. I've had much success in the conformation ring with just this type of dog, in a variety of breeds.

Lena's mother was just such a dog. Other people had tried, without success, to show her to her championship. I got her in January and with just a little confidence building and focus work, showed her to her championship in just under 4 months, with very limited showing. Lena's father is a great show dog, but he has some "quirks" at home. Lena's "over the top" behavior is the result of her genetics.

Lena has trouble standing still. She isn't confident, but acts tough when she is in a familiar place. She can exhibit barrier frustration

. She constantly uses her mouth, earning her the nick-name "piranha!" She gets along with other dogs and loves people. She's the type of dog most owners would say has "ADHD."

I decided to chronicle my training journey with her so others can see that a dog trainer's dog isn't always perfect. We have the same challenges as our students. Here is day one:

Focus exercises were the key. Lena needs to learn heel position, how to remain focused with distractions, and how to keep all four feet on the ground. She has a pretty solid recall, a solid target (hand) touch and a beautiful mat (place training) settle. I decided to use platform training to help teach her to stand still, and hand targeting to teach her heel position.


Exercise #1 - FRONTS UP - I used a short platform to teach her to put both front feet up and stand still. I use a marker word "YES" and then treat with a food reward (Lena works for kibble!) Multiple short training sessions were accomplished today and we worked this with the platform in front of me, as well as on my left side in heel position.

Exercise #2 - FRONT - The standard obedience recall + sit in front (I refer to this as "nose to toes" position) Lena needs to learn not to jump up. I cued a recall with "FRONT" and then used a "flash lure" of food to cue sit as she came barreling in towards my legs. Without the flash lure Lena's standard behavior is a default jump. I incorporated the exercise of "back up and sit," one of my favorite focus exercises.

Exercise #3 - HEEL - Teaching heel position is most often done through luring forward. For Lena, forward motion equals WOO HOO! I am choosing to teach her the focus part of heeling first, then add the forward motion. Using a hand target (my left hand, with the pointer finger extended) complete with a food lure, I am choosing to walk backwards one step after giving the cue "HEEL" and then marking Lena for every step she takes while focused on the target hand. With dogs like Lena progressing too quickly is a recipe for losing focus.

In addition I am using the platform to create heel position. The cue "HEEL" is really a position cue, not a motion cue. Once Lena learned fronts up I can then cue her to do it in heel position.

Why am I doing this? Because Lena NEEDS it. She wants to work. She wants to please. She's just not hard wired for calm behavior. It is my job to teach it.

Until tomorrow!

Is Punishment Good or Bad?

A dog is the perfect addition to our family. We cherish that fuzzy faced, cute bundle of joy that we choose to bring into our household. The first few weeks are great! He seems nearly perfect, except for the occasional accident, which we know is our fault. Then IT happens. That little darling has become a paper shredding, wood chewing, noise making, leash pulling monster, seemingly overnight! Not to mention all those accidents when he should "know better," right?

We add a dog to our life to compliment our family not complicate it. It's easy to feel frustrated and that's when owners react by punishing the dog. Well intentioned friends often suggest punishment based tools to "correct" the behavior. Unfortunately without UNDERSTANDING THE CAUSE of the behavior devices such as prong collars, shock collars, spray bottles, and air horns can have the wrong impact. They can serve as unintentional reinforcement, which unfortunately keeps the behavior going. They can create fear, which creates a whole host of other problems. Often these problems are worse than the original challenges. Owners often remark that the "behavior is better, as long as I have the insert punishment tool here." This is called suppression. You haven't really CHANGED the behavior. All you've done is minimized the behavior when the punisher is being used. When it comes back, and it typically will, it usually comes back at an even higher level. 

So IS PUNISHMENT USEFUL? The answer is YES! Punishment is a useful training tool if the following is also applied:

1) It is applied AT THE SAME TIME, AND AT THE SAME LEVEL EVERY TIME.

2) It is applied AT A LEVEL THAT DOES NOT CAUSE A FEARFUL RESPONSE.

3) It CHANGES THE BEHAVIOR WITH ONLY ONE OR TWO APPLICATIONS.

So let's define Punishment. Punishment is something that makes a behavior less likely to be repeated. It's counterpart, reinforcement, makes a behavior more likely to be repeated. So in order to change your dog's behavior YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHAT IS DRIVING IT! 

Now comes the confusing part... Punishment can be Positive or Negative. WHAT?

The training tools listed above are ADDED to try to reduce the behavior. Adding something is called Positive Punishment. It can be effective. One example is the use of a Scat Mat for counter surfing. A tingling feeling when the dog puts his paws up on the now booby trapped counter can reduce the incidence of it recurring. But without teaching the dog some other behavior that can be rewarded, such as a place stay during times he previously explored the counters, the behavior is likely to continue. You can't rely on the use of punishment alone. 

Now let's look at a behavior like pulling on leash. Why do dogs pull? They pull to explore. They pull towards others to greet them. They pull to eat that nasty thing in the grass. Can you punish this behavior. Yes, you can! You can stop walking when the leash is tight, or turn and walk a different direction, thereby preventing access to what the dog wants. Taking away something the dog wants is called Negative Punishment. But stopping every time your dog pulls, or constantly turning around is boring and frustrating for both you and your dog.  You need to teach fundamental loose leash walking skills that your dog can use to ask for permission! Once again you can't rely on simply trying to punish. 

If you look at why a behavior is occurring you can decide IF punishment is useful. The most common behavior problems owners face are often normal canine behaviors that collide with the human family model. These behaviors can often be changed quite easily by removing the reward that the dog receives AND replacing the behavior with something the dog can perform TO GET REINFORCED! Yes, it takes time and training. We send our children to school to learn acceptable behavior. Why is it that we often fail to give our dogs the same basic schooling and resort to simply trying to punish? 

That's why the use of punishment is considered "bad" by many trainers. Because as humans we don't take time to understand WHY. We just want it to end. And we think the dog "should know better." There is no way they can unless we teach them. It's our responsibility as owners to teach the dog a better option, instead of simply punishing. Trust, respect, and love are what we give our children. Don't our four legged kids deserve the same?

Influences of Behavior

Why Does My Dog Do That?

As a trainer I hear statements from owners almost daily about what they do not want their dog to do, and very few where the owner tells me what they would like instead. It is rare that an owner calls me and says “can you help me teach my dog to do (insert behavior here).” Some of the more common frustrated proclamations sound like this:

“I’ve got a 4 month old Golden Retriever (or Labrador, or Doodle, or any other sporting dog) and I want him to stop stealing my (insert item here!)” 

Or:

“My 6 month old Aussie (or any other herding breed) won’t stop chasing my children, and now he’s starting to nip (or herd them.)”

Or:

“How can I stop my Schnauzer (insert any other terrier breed here) from digging when he’s outside?” 

Or another frequently heard emergency call:

“My year old German Shepherd won’t stop barking at people.  How do I make him stop barking?”

Problem behaviors in dogs do not just happen overnight. When an owner is frustrated it is because the behavior has reached a point where it is affecting the owner’s quality of life. All too often the owner doesn’t understand that the behavior has many factors that have influenced the dog, some that they may have had control over, some that they may not. 

With behavior we know that there are certain aspects of behaviors that are hard wired, or have served some significant purpose for that breed in the past, and those that are shaped by life experiences. We often refer to these as Nature vs. Nuture. Behaviors that are selectively bred for, over generations, are difficult, if not impossible, to erase. The sporting breeds have been used for centuries to leap through tall grass to flush and point, jump out of the boat or off the bank to retrieve the bird that was shot, and carry back whatever they can. That 4 month old Golden isn’t going to stop putting things in his mouth! What the owner needs to do is train a solid recall and drop it cue, AND manage his house so that inappropriate objects are not within reach of his puppy! Those Doodle’s are genetically programmed for this as well, and that Labrador puppy purchasedfrom a “field breeder” because the “show types” are “unhealthy” has been pre-programmed with enough energy to be out in the field ALL DAY LONG! That means that the owner now has to deal with how to channel 5 or 6 HOURS of energy everyday into something positive. 

Terriers dig, herding dogs circle, chase, and nip (when they have too much energy and no self control,) and dogs bred to be guardians require extra positive socialization in order to learn that strangers don’t mean danger!

That brings me to the “nurture” aspect. Don’t blame the dog if his social skills are not what you expected. There are several critical early development periods that shape behavior. 

4-6 weeks of age – Puppies must be exposed to a variety of different people, sights, and sounds in order to help them develop confidence and sociability. 

6-8 weeks of age – Puppies MUST REMAIN WITH LITTERMATES or they fail to develop social skills critical later on, such as bite inhibition. 

8-12 weeks of age – Primary imprinting period that also encompasses early fear period.

12-16 weeks of age – Age of exploration but also the first primary fear period. 

17 weeks to maturity – Continued POSITIVE associations are needed to create a stable, well behaved adult. 

In addition to these learning periods your dog’s genetic makeup also influences behavior. Puppies from high strung, fearful, or poorly socialized mothers (and fathers) are often genetically programmed to behave the same way. 

Pet store puppy? He probably didn’t see anyone until he was shipped to the store. Transplant rescue dog from “the south?” He may not have lived indoors, with people, or near traffic. Puppy shipped in from out of state internet breeder. Congratulations! You may have just won the behavior nightmare trifecta! If you do not know where your puppy came from then you don’t know what genetic and poor or non-existent early learning influences are at work to shape his behavior. 

So don’t blame the dog if you failed to train him properly. Don’t blame the dog if you don’t know his history. Don’t blame the dog if you failed to socialize him as a puppy because you were “too busy” or didn’t think it was “necessary.” Blame Mother Nature. Blame yourself. But don’t blame the dog. And yes, we can help teach behaviors that can replace “naughty ones,” and with patience and an understanding for how the dog feels we can help many learn to be more comfortable in the world  around him. 

Connection vs. Correction

When I first started offering private lessons over a decade ago I thought that success as a trainer was gaining results as quickly as possible. I worried about the owner's emotional state (a happy owner refers others) and less about the dog's emotions. After all an owner who has spent money to solve a problem that still persists isn't satisfied, and you know the old saying "a happy client tells 3 people, an unhappy client tells 30." If I could solve the problem the dog would remain in the home, tell others how good the training was because I "fixed" their dog, and everyone wins, right? 

Well in those early years I quickly realized that every dog has an emotional side that drives behavior. And all too often the dog's emotional state was at least, in part, an underlying cause of some of those more common complaints from owners. If I failed to take the dog's view of what was happening into consideration the dog was still "losing," even if the owner was satisfied. I changed the way I work with each dog, dropped a professional membership that seemed to conflict with the way I wanted to train, and set out to begin educating owners about their responsibility of looking at situations from the dog's point of view first. This philosophy is not for everyone and yes, I'm sure it has cost me some business, but it is the way I want to train. 

So often we work with owners who can Identity behaviors from their dog that they would like to change, and yet they haven't thought about the miriad of things that could be driving the behavior. They haven't thought about what they would like the dog to do instead. They don't give the slightest thought about the dog's emotional state or well being. All they know is that they want the behavior to stop as quickly as possible. Words such as "correct," "punish," and "bad" are almost always a part of the owner's dialogue. 

I now always ask owners to try to understand that a dog doesn't magically know what we want from them. Every behavior serves a purpose from the dog's perspective, and it is a human definition when the dog is "bad."  Many owner defined "bad" behaviors are often quite normal to the dog.  When we understand the dog's view of our world we begin to become "connected" to him. If we are "connected" to the dog we can often change the behavior quite easily and it may not require a "correction!" The brilliant trainer Suzanne Clothier uses the phrase "how is this for you?" when working with any species. It is this phrase that embodies the importance of connection! 

Let's look at some specific examples of connection vs. correction:

"Bad " behavior at the front door? When connected we look to the dog for signs of anxiety, stress, fear, or simply excitement. Knowing what the dog is feeling helps determine how to best change the behavior. Should we move him away from the door, and place him in another room with a chew toy before guests arrive to help him be more comfortable? Some forms of punishment designed to "correct" barking and jumping when guests arrive can exacerbate fear based behaviors, making a dog's behavior at the door worse instead of better. Dog's who suffer physical punishment at or near the door, or repeatedly in the presence of unfamiliar people entering, often resort to biting if given the chance. Dog's who are helped to " feel better" about guests often learn to relax. Dogs who are simply over exuberant greeters can learn that jumping means they don't get to greet if we ignore them, walk away from them, or move them away from guests using gentle guidance from the leash. 

Pulling on leash! When connected we learn what the dog finds interesting, worthy of exploring, and important in the environment, as well as anything that makes them nervous, scared, or intimidated. Interesting places, smells, and people can be used as rewards for good decisions on the dog's part. What's a good decision? Sitting quietly, paying attention to the owner, and above all else, not pulling towards it! Any combination of these can result in the dog being allowed to sniff, eliminate, investigate, or "say hi!" Repeated leash pops, designed to "correct" pulling, are simply nagging as most dog's don't learn what it is we really want. Intimidation through collar corrections in the presence of something scary, or making a young dog move closer toward something it is frightened of, may serve to ingrain that fear forever.

Barking! This is the behavior most owners want to "correct" quickly, yet all barking does not mean the same thing! A bark is a communication attempt, plain and simple. What the dog is saying dictates how we change it. You cannot change it if you don't know what it means! Being connected affords you the opportunity to learn if the bark represents "Go away! You frighten me!" "Hey mom, play with me," or "I'm so lonely!" "Correct" two of these and you've now got bigger problems! Connect and you make changes that make you and your dog happier! 

I choose to connect to both my clients and their dogs. I approach every class or private lesson knowing that they both have individual needs. I try not to "correct" my clients, preferring instead to empathize with them, "connecting" to their view as well. I see better training outcomes from those owners willing to connect instead of just correct! And the relationship improves, which truly is a win for everyone! 

Please Be Dog Smart!

Ten years ago, this month, Two Paws Up Dog Training was born. The focus of the business has always been to educate owners as we change their dog's behavior, creating a positive relationship for both dog and owner. We would like to take this opportunity to thank our clients for their referrals, as we continue to grow every month. We do not advertise so your personal recommendations are a testament that our mission is working! 

We always try to use a positive approach to change behaviors first. We are always an advocate for the dog. We also realize that in some cases owners can't have a physical fence, may need a stronger tool to help with control, or may have physical limitations. These situations can be challenging for everyone.

Recent events in the Lake Forest and Lake Bluff communities unfortunately highlight that we have so much more to do to educate dog owners. Based on personal observations, and our clients own challenges, we would like to share a few thoughts with our readers:

1) Not all dogs want to interact with unfamiliar dogs. Your dog may get along beautifully with other dogs but that doesn't mean all other dogs are like yours! Some dogs missed out on early socialization, which means that their social skills are not as good as your dog. Others may have had a bad experience with another dog, and would rather your dog just keep his distance. Every time your dog approaches one of these dogs it creates a "fight or flight" response. Dogs on leash often don't feel that flight is available so fight becomes their only option. These dogs aren't bad, just need their own space! These dogs don't care if your dog "just wants to say HI!" Ask first and teach your dog not to pull towards other dogs!

2) An underground containment system (electric fence) is not an excuse to leave your dog outside unattended for hours. Dogs are social in nature and when left by themselves often become destructive to pass the time. Digging and chewing are normal canine behaviors so if you leave your pooch outside unattended don't be mad when he becomes a landscaper.

3) Speaking of electric fences did you know that they often have unintended consequences? Barrier frustration, where the dog can see others but not get to them, leads to perimeter barking and, in many cases, aggression. One or two pairings of a stimuli (person or dog for example) with pain or fear can be a very powerful lesson learned. From the dog's perception the person or dog they see becomes the reason they get beeped (aversive to many dogs) or shocked (a pain response ensues.) If your dog constantly barks at other dogs when outside alone be responsible and keep him indoors during peak periods of activity in your neighborhood.

4) Retractable leashes should be banned! Seriously folks throw these away! Most owners have no control over their dog when it's 3 or 4 feet ahead of them on a regular leash, let alone at 10-15 feet! If your dog on a retractable leash walks into another dog's yard and gets bitten by the dog defending its own space, SHAME ON YOU! We also recently witnessed a dog on a retractable leash run into traffic and was killed before his owner could react! 

5) And why are dogs being walked on a retractable leash AND a prong collar? One teaches the dog to pull by having constant tension on the neck, and the other is presumably because the dog pulls and the owner felt,at some point, there was a need to correct it! You either teach a dog not to pull or let them do what they want! How confusing is this for the dog? 

6) Dogs should be restrained in cars, period! Dogs in front seats are dead if the airbag is deployed. A dog loose in the car creates a distraction hazard for the driver and will be thrown from the car in an accident. Dogs left to hang out the windows are at risk for eye injuries, falls, or worse yet, leaping out the window. Yes, this just happened in Lake Forest! The dog either jumped or was tossed out the car and struck by the car behind the one he was riding in, killing it instantly! Dogs tethered near the open window can be dragged outside or hung, sometimes inside the vehicle, often while the driver is unaware of what has happened.Don't even get us started on dogs in the back of pick up trucks! Crates are safest but any thoughtful restraint is better than none! 

7) Your dog doesn't magically know what your expectations are, especially when you parade them around for hours in public. Yes, this means that unless your dog has had a lot of short trips to town that were positive, AND you've slowly increased the time he's been there, AND you've created a positive association with noises, people, and other animals, he shouldn't attend fairs, parades, and festivals. Do you know the most common signs of stress in your dog? Have you paid attention to your dog, watched for the signs of stress, and returned your dog to the safety of his home when they first begin to appear? This is the hardest thing for us to watch as trainers! Owners who, for some reason, thought it would be a great idea to include their dog, but are then completely oblivious to how the dog is feeling. Owners who let their dog wander up to another dog uninvited, and then get offended when the dog is met with a growl, snarl, or snap. The FAMILY DOG is a living, breathing member of the family. Would they put their children in the same situations? 

Being Dog Smart means that you pay attention to what your dog needs, as well as the needs of other dogs you encounter. It means you are open to new ideas, you want to have a cooperative relationship with your dog, and you believe he has needs as well. Dog Smart owners are aware of their  responsibility to keep their dog happy and healthy! Our job is to help more people become dog smart ! It's easy! It can be fun! And it's beneficial to our communities! Spread the word and remember, we are here to help make Lake Forest and Lake Bluff dog friendly and Dog Smart!

Parenting Today's "Children"

We live in a world that is progressive and tries to be politically correct. Children today are involved in more activities, clubs, and sports than ever before. Parents are often pulled in multiple directions as they try to get everyone where they need to be. Family dinners are virtually a thing of the past. We live in a world where we believe "more is better." 

Parenting today is more difficult than ever. Divorce, long work hours, and social commitments all pull parents away from the relationship with their children. And yet, in our politically correct, progressive society we are no longer pet owners, we are "pet parents." We no longer live with a dog or cat, they are our "fur children."

I refer to my dogs as my "kids" and, just as I did with my two human children, I take their education seriously. It is my responsibility to make sure that they behave when in public, that they are not a nuisance to my neighbors, and that they get along with others. These are the same goals I had when parenting my human children.

My human children went to preschool, kindergarten, elementary, middle school, high school and finally, college. If we are going to have " fur kids" it is our responsibility to make sure that they are as educated and well behaved as our two legged kids. As "pet parents" we should enroll our puppies in a puppy class so that they can attend preschool and kindergarten. Their elementary education should include a manners class, beginner obedience class, or similar curriculum, where they learn how to behave around people and other "kids." Higher education is also available! 

I see so many clients struggling to balance their lives with their dog's basic needs and education. Comments such as "I just don't have the time" or "I didn't know it was going to be this much work" are heard weekly. The similarities between poorly behaved children and out of control dogs cannot be ignored. What is a "pet parent" to do?

Set clear rules and make sure everyone understands why they are important. Be ready to a help your dog learn what you want and expect from him, through a system of rewards, instead of trying to punish him for what he doesn't understand, or worse yet, has never learned! Know what "normal" behavior is for your dog's breed and age, and make sure that he has aerobic and mental exercise that meets his needs, not yours. 

Sound impossible? Welcome to "pet parenting!" You are responsible for your "kid's" behavior. Need help? That's where we come in. As teachers we can help you set realistic expectations. Through private coaching lessons or day training we can tutor your fur child. And yes, their is even boarding school if you are going away. Together we can make a difference, one " fur kid" at a time.